As I was talking to the Cuban doorman at Parque Central hotel in Centro Havana, he asked me where I was from. This is a question you will hear constantly from nearly everyone but I will get to that later in this blog post. I responded with an honest answer and replied New York (that will be covered too). He in turn asked if I loved Cuba, and I said yes, very much. He seemed skeptical, explaining that he believed Cuba or mainly Havana was not a beautiful city like New York. I responded in turn by saying this view is relative and while some may not find Havana aesthetically pleasing to look at, there is much beauty in Cuba. Havana seems like a real-life museum with its dilapidated buildings, unpaved and broken streets, ruined mansions, and old but probably coveted nostalgic Chevrolet cars. What is remarkable is that inside of some of these ruined buildings and mansions, there are elegantly appointed rooms; you suddenly hear Rihanna's 2015 "Work" blaring from one of these old classic cars; and in hip and trendy Vedado and Miramar, you will encounter a Cuban man in Louis Vuitton sunglasses or women dressed to the nine in mega-high heels. Only 40 minutes outside of Havana are beautiful modern resort homes along the sea and Playas del Estes beaches. More importantly, you will encounter hospitable Cuban people who open their homes to you, smile genuinely when you greet them with "Hola" or "Ciao" and who are eager to practice the English language with you. This is the beauty of Cuba. It is an enigma and probably the most unique place I've travelled to thus far.

El Malecón - the broad esplanade and seawall along the coast of Havana (5 miles long).

Petite and Solo Safety Factor

4.7 out of 5

The main reason why I can not give Cuba a safety rating of 5 out of 5 is because no such place truly exist in the world. That being said, wandering Havana alone was extremely safe even in the evenings when the dimly lit calle (street) in Havana Vieja loomed in front of you and you wondered if it was wise to walk down this street. Havana is the most populated city in Cuba with approximately two million inhabitants. One day on my hour tour of the city, the driver of my Pepto-Bismol pink convertible Chevrolet car told me that of the two million people in Havana, one million of them were police officers. He said this smilingly, but I do not believe he was joking. He said there was no Mafia in Cuba, crime rate was very low, and there was nearly a stern-looking police officer with a baton or a machine gun on every other corner of the street. Is this display of authority a result of excessive crime and infractions in Cuba? No. This may be a show of power of the Government state, after all, Cuba is a Communist country. It may also be a deterrent for all and to ensure law is enforced on this island. I admit, when I see police officers and anti-terrorist squads at the train station in New York, I feel better and secure. Perhaps this is the same principle at work here.

At first glance, Havana may appear to be a city from the Apocalyptic future where lawlessness prevails but it is not. It is safe for a woman to travel here alone. The people are hospitable and friendly and welcome all tourists, especially us "wealthy" Americans. Evenings are filled with people on the streets especially in the tourist-filled areas and along Malecón. I only experienced one catcall during my visit and I believe it is because I was mistaken for a Cuban woman. I honestly feel the only crime that an unprepared tourist may experience is the opportunistic snatch-and-grab of a purse or from a pick pocketer. I heard that theft can occur at the airport from checked-in luggage or perhaps by the housekeeper pilfering through your items in your casa particular or hotel however this can happen anywhere. The point is to always travel with good sense. Keep your passport and excess of cash in the safe provided, walk around with your tourist visa in case you are asked and with your daily allowance of Convertible Cuban Pesos (CUC) and just use caution as required when walking city streets (day or night) and in crowded places.

Accessibility

How to travel to Cuba from the United States and the requirements of travel can be found in my previous blog post here.

I however planned my trip to Cuba way in advance and did not fly directly from New York despite the new regulations set in place by the Obama Administration in 2015 and further relaxed regulations in 2016. I was nervous of these new rules and believed it seemed too good to be true for Americans to now visit Cuba so easily. I flew to Grand Cayman and spent a few days there for a separate occasion before moving onto Havana. I obtained my tourist visa, medical insurance and hotel accommodations at IberoStar Parque Central in Havana through A. Nash Travel which I highly recommend you use. I was visiting Cuba, obviously to write for this blog and photojournalism. I suggest you travel with a carry-on suitcase or trunk. It is not uncommon to wait 1 or 2 hours for checked luggage. I also wanted to have the People-to-People experience of Cuba and reserved my casa particular through AirBnB. My homestay was remarkable. The interior of the house was clean and decorated so tastefully, I looked forward to coming back to my room after spending the entire day galavanting around Havana.The hosts (Yanet, Maite and Adilson) and staff were congenial and extremely helpful with booking my airport transfer, hailing taxis and making paladar or restaurant reservations.

At Casa Blanca Malecon 413, I had a lovely stay and highly recommend this casa particular facing the Malecón and only a 20 minute walk to most sites and Havana Vieja. Casa Blanca is decorated all in white and has a total of three rooms for rent, each with its own bathroom. My room was located above the common living room where meals are served. Breakfast which consisted of a platter of tropical fruits, fresh juice (varied per day - mango, pineapple, guava mix), eggs cooked as you like, coffee or tea and cookies. This was all for CUC4 daily. The room itself provided a view of the Malecón, a welcomed air-conditioner, a safe in the armoire and a mini-bar refrigerator.

Havana is made up of four sections or neighborhoods, Havana Vieja, Centro Havana, Vedado and Miramar. Getting around Havana is quite easy. If you are up to it, you can walk around for hours exploring Havana. Yellow Cubataxis are readily available and can be hailed (in Spanish) exactly the way you would in New York City. Three-wheeled eggshell shaped taxi pods called CoCo Taxis are also available and they can carry up to two adults. Men riding homespun Bici-taxis will constantly ask you if you require a ride through the narrow calles or a tour of a neighborhood or the city. The minimum fare is CUC1. Finally there are the bright and pastel colored Chevy Bel-Airs or Buick Invicta convertible cars from the 1950's and 1960's that can be found everywhere as modes of transportation. Public buses that the locals rely on are crowded, slow and commonly never on schedule.

A taxi from the airport will run you about CUC30 while a classic car may cost anywhere from CUC40 to CUC60. A taxi to Vedado from Central Havana should run you no more than CUC10. Fares can always be negotiated. If you have a grasp for the Spanish language, always try to haggle and agree for a fare before setting off. I haggled in my broken Spanish and with a little bit of flirting.

Tours in the fancy classic cars are sometimes negotiable. I insisted on a hot pink convertible car to give me a brief tour (one hour) around Havana. The price started at CUC40. Another quoted me CUC60 for two hours. Finally I found a driver who took me around for one hour for CUC30. I gave him a CUC5 tip for his company and jokes along the way.

Single Girl Comfort

I have to admit. As I walked along the Malecón my first morning in Havana, I didn't know what to expect. These derelict buildings looked beautiful and creepy at the same time. Is someone hiding inside watching me? Was this a good idea coming here alone? The more I walked, the more I noticed that the locals paid me no attention. It was the hustlers who constantly asked me for a taxi or tour that I found a little tiresome. I soon learnt that if I spoke in French, they left me alone. When asked where I was from, I would say Haiti or Canada. This somehow deterred them from pursuing further with their begging for me to take their tour or hop into their Bici-taxi.

By day two, I got my act together, dressing in bright colors like the locals and walking down the calles like I owned the place. I got my lay of the land with my map but I realized that when I took my map out to look for a street or to get my bearings, the hustlers would pounce again on the tourist. "Are you lost?" "What are you looking for?" Beware of the polite and helpful Cuban man. He is harmless but his intentions are probably not really genuine. Just politely say "No thank you" or "No Gracias" and go about your way.

By day three, I was mistaken for a Cuban woman on three occasions; once by an Asian tourist and the other times by actual Cubans. I was welcomed and spoken to in Spanish. I would have to politely say I did not speak Spanish (in Spanish). I blended in and I loved that! I was no longer a tourist. I walked down random streets that tourists may or may not frequent and Cuban men, women and children didn't bat an eye. This may not happen to many of you while in Cuba but what I would recommend is to try to let Cuba invade your senses. Leave the DSLR camera in the safe (if it can fit), wear bright mismatched colors like the Cuban women and just enjoy Havana.

You will never really feel alone in Havana. There are really tourists from all countries everywhere and I always detected an American accent. I meet Germans, French, British, South Africans, and Israeli tourists during my five-day stay in Cuba. I suppose this was a comfort and helped me not feel lonely. Honestly, I never do feel lonely when I am alone.

One last note. Cuban men are gorgeous and sexy. I was admired on numerous occasions but never really disrespected. I am not sure if they thought I was an Afro-Cuban woman but I have been told that I can pass for one. Either way I did not feel uncomfortable when I passed a group on men on the street. If anything, I have felt more leery walking by a bunch of construction workers in New York City. Totally different experience that I won't bother elaborating on here.

Dining Solo and Confident

Be prepared. Cuban cuisine from Cuba is not the same as Cuban food from the United States. After the Revolution, the middle and upper class clientele fled Cuba along with their restaurants and chefs, taking their knowledge and entrepreneurship with them. Soon after, state-runned restaurants took over. The good news is since 2011, most restrictions on private restaurants have been lifted which led to quality dining options. These paladares provide creative fusions that can satisfy the average tourist's palate. I dined solo at many of these private restaurants but was never alone because they were filled with tourists, both groups and individuals. For the more coveted paladares, reservations are a must even if you are traveling solo. I asked my host Yosvany from Casa Blanca Malecon 413 to help me make these reservations as my Spanish was limited. Even he had trouble making reservations at the time I desired but managed to get me in anyway. I showed up and announced "Yo soy sola" and began my Cuban culinary experience. That being said, here are the paladares I would recommend.

Great Places to Dine:

Le Chansonnier - A French Cuban Fusion private restaurant located in hip and trendy Vedado and housed in an old restored mansion.

La Guarida - The most acclaimed paladar in Havana on the third floor of a once glamorous, now dilapidated 19th Century townhouse. My best meal was here.

IVAN chefs JUSTO - visited by Beyonce and Jay Z, this paladar is runned by Fidel Castro's former chef and is located in a 18th Century colonial building with vintage photographs of Cuban and American movie stars. The arroz negro with calamares was to die for.

El Cocinero - A restaurant, roof-top terrace and lounge in Miramar is very trendy and hip. A distinguishing closed down smokestack marks its location. The food here was okay but the drinks and the scene is why people come here.

O'Reilly 304 - I had the best mojito here. Bar vibe is cool with wonderfully strong drinks. My grilled lobster came with a plethora of vegetables which I really appreciated.

IBEROSTAR Parque Central - The best hotel in Havana has a nice rooftop pool to relax and sip a Pardo cocktail or two. The views aren't bad either.

La Terraza - Located behind the Parque Central hotel on the roof, this lovely restaurant overlooks the famous Pardo Promenade of Old Havana

Wayfarer Pointers

Currency exchange

Your foreign currency whatever it is must be converted to Cuba's convertible pesos (pesos convertibles) or CUC. It can be changed at the airport upon arrival, tourist hotels, banks and official exchange bureaus. Americans and only Americans are charged the usual 3% commission and an additional 10% simply because you are using U. S. Dollars. My advice to you is to come to Cuba with Euros if you can. I found the exchange to be the best at 1 to 1.

As for budgeting, I like to eat and travel well, therefore I budgeted CUC120 per day for food, tipping, transportation and misc. Cash is king in Cuba and your American credit and debit cards will not work. It is best to have more cash than needed and to avoid being stranded. I travelled with 700 Euros and USD$500 for my five-day stay in Cuba. I came back home with 50 Euros and all of my U. S. Dollars.

WiFi

Etecsa has a monopoly on the Internet service which will require you to purchase prepaid Nauta internet cards. At a bodega I was charged CUC3 for 1 hour internet service and used it at the Hotel Deauville's lobby on the Malecón. The signal was not spotty at all and very strong. At the Parque Central hotel, I was charged CUC2 for 1 hour internet service and the Wifi would kick me out every now and then (frustrating). The signal was only available in the lobby and literally outside the elevator landing on each floor. The airport charged me CUC1 for 30 minutes.

Art

I love art and decided to visit the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes (Cuban section), housed in the classical Palacio de Bellas Artes. The works were lovely representing the vision of early 16th and 17th century artists, pieces from the colonial era and early 20th century interpretations of Impressionism and the Revolution. The entrance fee was CUC5. Photo taking is not allowed but ...

Next to El Cocinero Restaurant in Vedado/Miramar is La Fabrica de Arte Cubana. The "art factory" is part gallery, part club, part live music and dancing venue. The crowd is young and eclectic, made up of both Cubans and foreigners. I wish I could remember the entrance fee but I may have had too many Cuba Libres.

Extracurricular activities

I craved a day at the beach but didn't want to travel two hours to Varadero. Only 40 minutes away from Havana is a lovely stretch of beaches called Playas del Este. It is a hot destination for Cubans and foreigners alike to rendezvous under the palapas and palm trees. Playa Santa Maria del Mar is the broadest and most beautiful swathe with golden sand and turquoise waters. You can opt for a taxi to take you there or do as I did and take a special shuttle air-conditioned bus. The T3 Transtur bus from Parque Central (Central Park across from Hotel Ingleterra) takes you to the last stop, Santa Maria (Hotel Atlantico) for just CUC5 roundtrip. It runs every 40 minutes and the last bus from Santa Maria is at 6:00 p.m. on Sunday. This is a public beach with no restrooms so bring your own towels, sunscreen and empty bladder. Chairs and umbrellas can be rented if available. Funny thing is I heard the "beach attendant" quote CUC5 each to a couple from Germany but told me it was CUC2. Go figure, maybe he thought I was Cuban. Score!

I am not a smoker but it would be remiss of me to not experience why some of the finest cigars in the world come from Cuba. There are a few factories in Havana that you can visit without going to Vinales' Tobacco farms. The Partagas Cigar Factory which specializes in full-bodies cigars such as the Montecristo, Partagas and of course Cohiba is available for tours by buying a ticket at the Hotel Saratoga for CUC10. From there, you will need to take a taxi to the new location (about CUC6).

I managed to catch the last tour of the day at 1:00 p.m. and the tour guide took his time with our large group, answering all of our questions and taking over an hour to go through the facilities. I asked him what was the average pay for a cigar roller and he said CUC75 a month. This was considered a good paying job.

Honest Solo Traveler's advice

When visiting Cuba, I urge you to not lower your expectations, but to manage them. Like many in the Caribbean, Cubans take their time. There is no rush. You may sit at a table for five or ten minutes before you are asked if you would like water (ask for bottled by the way). Five Star hotels are really more like 3 Star hotels by European or American standards. The currency exchange says open from 7:00 a.m. to 9:00 p.m. but the agent is late or leaves early. Please don't have a tantrum on the line like I actually witnessed by an adult couple. The fare is CUC8. Let the driver have the change from your CUC10 bill. Cubans on average can make CUC20 a month. A month! They rely on tips and gratuities. It helps them to get by. Education, universities and hospitals are free, it's true. Housing is not free in Cuba but the government keeps the cost of housing low to promote ownership, over 85%. The meager salary and fixed income the people receive is for food, clothing, medicine and everyday expenses. They are happy to welcome tourism to Cuba. One of my host at Casa Blanca Malecon 413 told me that the people loved the deceased dictator Fidel Castro but he was just a strict father. They look forward to the changes to come and just want to catch up with the rest of the world. Be a kind solo female traveler. You won't regret it.