72 Hours in Dubai Alone and with Confidence
I really look forward to planning a bucket list trip or two every year. There are so many World Heritage and archeological sites to choose from, exotic and wild cities to indulge in, rustic and nature-inspiring countries to explore. I remember scrolling through my Facebook newsfeed and came across a page with inspirational bucket list locations. The atolls of Maldives flashed before my eyes and in that moment, I decided I will travel solo there. I began to plan for this journey, discovering one of the best ways to get to the Maldives was to connect through the United Arabic Emirates. Traveling through Dubai, Abu Dhabi or Doha would be the most sensible and shortest way to get to the islands of the Maldives, located in the middle of the Indian Ocean. Could I kill two birds with one stone, visit both the Middle East and the Maldives? This is how I ended up 72 hours in Dubai, the most cosmopolitan and modern city of the U.A.E.
Petite and Solo Safety Factor
4.5 out of 5
I have always heard that Dubai was a ultramodern city with opulence, indulgence, bigger-than-life and over-the-top lifestyle. It is one of seven emirates or principalities (states) owned by a dynasty of Islamic monarchs. The architecture makes Las Vegas look small. Artificial beaches and man-made islands are shaped into elaborate palm trees and the map of the world. Dubai has the largest shopping mall in the world (which felt like a city). At the airport, it can take you as long as 40 minutes to 1 hour to travel between gates. Its motto frequently quoted by His Highness Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum, ruler (and owner) of the Emirate of Dubai, is to transform the city of Dubai and make it the future of the future. In 2010, he launched the U.A.E. vision 2021, its aim to make the U.A.E. one of the best countries in the world by 2021. Dubai, once a fishing village in the early 18th century has now emerged as the global business hub of the Middle East thanks to the discover of Middle East gold also known as oil. Its main revenues comes from tourism, aviation, real estate and financial services.
Enough about the description of this magnificent city. Is it safe? Is it safe for women to travel there alone? If it safe for women of a different ethnicity to travel solo? The answer to all three questions is yes. Dubai is one of the safest Middle Eastern destinations for women travelers. Don't get me wrong. All cities and countries has its share of "situations" but in Dubai's case, it is governed by a strict interpretation of Islamic law which must be respected by its citizens and all travelers. That being said, these laws keep people in line. If you are accustomed to traveling to a large city, you will truly fit in. I personally did not feel unsafe here. I walked alone (when walking was possible) and was not harassed or bothered by anyone. I dressed respectfully in modern, western clothing and no one batted an eye. It is safe to take a taxi or Uber alone, stay in a hotel, single occupancy. Women have the choice of wearing or not wearing a Hijab, headscarf or veil. They are allowed to drive a car. There is definitely a misunderstanding from people from other parts of the world who assume all Middle Eastern women are veiled, repressed and abused victims. This is not true in Dubai. My tour quide to the camel safari excursion I partook in explained that women have a choice to be veiled and in this day and age, monogamous marriages are favored. While traditionally and according to Islam, a man can have up to four wives, reality is a man can barely afford one wife.
My advice to you is to always travel with sense. Be aware of your surroundings. Watch your personal belongings (petty theft exists everywhere). Respect the culture and/or religion. English is widely spoken and U. S. dollars are gladly and readily accepted.
Accessibility
Serving Dubai is Dubai International Airport (DXB), the world's busiest airport by international passenger traffic. Emirates Airlines is its hub airline and has consistently been ranked amongst the top 10 if not top 5 world's best airlines. Emirates also boasts the world's largest fleet of Airbus A380 super jumbo jets (two levels) which I had the opportunity to fly. The fare will run you just under USD$1,000.00 direct from New York's JFK International or Newark Liberty airports if you do not select your seat in advance and wait until online check-in 48 hours prior to the flight. Flying economy in Emirates is one of the best ways to fly to Dubai however if you can snag a business class flat bed seat like I did, the 12 hour 40 minute flight will fly by.
U.S. Citizens with a valid passport do not require a visa to the U.A.E. if the duration of the visit is less than 30 days. Upon arrival to the airport, I exchanged a few hundred dollars into U.A.E.'s dirham (AED) and took a metered taxi at the designated taxi stand. It took 20 minutes to reach my hotel, The St. Regis Dubai. The taxi fare was AED68.50 or $18.65 from the airport to Business Bay. Uber and Lyft services are also readily available and possibly cheaper.
Dubai can not be walked (not really) and is generally a car-orientated city. The highways and freeways are 10 - 12 lanes wide. The city is HUGE and there are cars everywhere as they are the primary mode of travel. Locations are far away from one another (like Las Vegas if you've been there but worse). The stretches of pavement can go on and on and there is rare opportunity to "cross the street" because the streets are more like freeways. Do not jaywalk like we New Yorkers or cross where there are no clear pedestrian markings. Speeding is common here and I noticed drivers may not hesitate to run over you like a squirrel. Places you can walk around is along the promenades, the massive shopping centers, Old Dubai with its souks and the main stretch of road along Sheikh Zayed Road to Downtown Dubai and the Burj Khalifa, but it will be a long walk.
Dubai does have a metro system. The Dubai Metro will remind you of the monorail of The Simpsons' animated cartoon. The trains are fully automated, driverless, air-conditioned with platform edge doors. There is standard class towards the middle and back sections and Gold class and women and children sections towards the front of the trains. As of now, the Red line (most commonly used) and the Green line are operational. The Red line runs from Rashidiya (near the airport) to the U.A.E. Exchange (about 29 stations). The Green line services Old Dubai from Etisalat metro station to Dubai HealthCity (about 20 stations). The Metro also offers 2 dedicated stops for Dubai International Airport Terminal 1 and Terminal 3 (eastern end of the Red line). You will only be allowed to carry 2 items of luggage on the metro train however (one large suitcase and one hand baggage).
The fares are relatively cheap compared to similar systems of the world (like New York or London). If you plan on using the metro frequently with several trips in a day or over a few days, you should get the Red ticket which is ideal for tourists and occasional users.
Single Girl Comfort
I believe you will feel at ease in Dubai. At least I did. At first, seeing some men in their traditional white robes called thoub or kandora and women in their black or multi-color Hijabs, may seem different however you will also see Arab men in western clothing, impeccable suits or shorts and tee shirts. I saw a non-Western woman heading to a breakfast meeting in a fitted dress suit paired with Christian Louboutin heels. She was confident and greeted her male counterparts with a hand shake. I saw a woman at the beach in her bikini and when she got out of the water, she wore a cover-up and continued to sunbathe.
I saw tourists and non-residents of all races and colors. No one seemed astonished to see me by myself. I suspect it is quite common for women to travel alone to Dubai. What I would advise is this, unwanted attention can exist and solo female travelers can sometimes be mistaken for someone they are not regardless of their age, dress or looks. To ward off unwanted attention or to feel more at ease if you are still uncomfortable, I suggest the following:
- Wear a "wedding ring", it will make you appear less available. Be prepared however for awkward questions from curious persons wondering why you are alone or away from your family. This happened to me in India (see previous blog post). In Dubai, a taxi driver was curious as well, but I shut him down and explained I was in Dubai on business
- Avoid direct or lingered eye contact with men (dark/mirrored sunglasses help)
- Never sit in the front seat of taxis unless the driver is a woman. Yes there are women taxi drivers in Dubai
- If you need help for any reason (directions etc.) approach or ask a woman first. I did this when I misjudged the distance to my hotel and thought I could walk there. A woman told me it would be a long walk with confusing walkways and I could end up "dodging" cars
- When dining alone, ask to be seated in a quiet corner or the "family" section
- On the metro, sit in the women's section towards the front
- You may wear western clothing but avoid revealing cleavage or wearing short skirts and shorts. At the airport, my eyes nearly fell out of my head when I witnessed a woman with short shorts. They were absurdly short and offensive and I wondered if the "moral" police would make an appearance. Finally I noticed a woman in a colorful hijab stare and shake her head. You will see tourists in skimpy shorts and tank tops occasionally but do not assume this is acceptable. U.A.E. hosts are often polite and will not say anything but most Emirates will find this disrespectful. Dress sensibly and modestly. This can mean covering your shoulders, knees and neckline in busy areas and especially in Old Dubai. Avoid the thong and microbikini at the beach and definitely do not sun bathe topless.
- Homosexuality along with sexual relations outside of marriage are crimes here. Avoid public displays of affection and save them for the hotel room.
- Finally look and be confident. Ultimately, this is the best deterrent for unwanted attention.
Dining Solo and Confident
Options for dining are plentiful and overwhelming. What you would find in the States will undoubtedly be in Dubai. Dubai caters to the palates and preferences of any discerning traveler. In Downtown Dubai and at the shopping centers, there are extensive options, from fast-food restaurants to world-class dining.
You will not find pork on the menu. What you will also notice on the menu are mocktails, "cocktails" without alcohol. Remember, drinking alcohol is forbidden but hotels will have alcohol on their menus.
I admit dining solo in Dubai felt weird. Group dining is normal and common and Dubai has not learned to embrace solo diners yet. It seems for residents and co-workers, eating together as a community or family is a ritual. It is also a sharing culture while solo dining is not. One evening, I went to dinner at 7:30p.m. at the hotel's steakhouse. I thought this was a reasonable time to eat but the restaurant was completely empty. The lovely hostess informed me that diners often in groups normally arrive by 9:00p.m. or so.
Do what you wish to do, after all you have to eat but I suggest not hiding in your guest room and ordering room-service. Go out, eat publicly in a restaurant, ask for a quiet table in the corner, bring your phone for entertainment and enjoy your meal. For comfort sake, go to a busy high turnover restaurant like those found in the malls.
Personally, I can dine all by myself in the hotel restaurant. I know they will anticipate solo business travelers and look after them. They may assume I am a business traveler. No problem. A newspaper or another form of reading may be provided to keep me busy while I enjoy my meal.
Great Places to Dine:
Brasserie Quartier - By day, The St. Regis Dubai offers an extensive selections of International and Western breakfast options. The breakfast buffet is outstanding.
J&G Steakhouse - Awarded best steakhouse in Dubai by TimeOut Dubai. Dark and sexy restaurant, and you get 20% off if you are a Starwood SPG member.
The Skyview Bar at Burj Al Arab - The Afternoon teas of Afternoon tea takes place here at the only 7 star hotel, Burj Al Arab. Take in views of Dubai on the 27th floor while you treat yourself to a 7-course High tea with champagne and unlimited tea service. Come here with an empty stomach.
La Veranda - This Italian restaurant is located on the marina beachfront of Jumeirah Beach Hotel. Enjoy a leisure lunch here with striking views of the beach and Burj Al Arab.
Wayfarer Pointers
Currency exchange
At the airport when you arrive, there really isn't a need to have a lot of cash on you. Dubai accepts all credit cards and you will probably get the best exchange rate with the use of them. The U.S. dollar is also accepted in many locations. You may want some dirham (AED) currency for the taxis, tourist sites or random purchases. You can use the Currency Exchange at the airport after your arrival. Make sure to use it all. Dirhams are useless in the U.S. and you will not be able to exchange it back.
Dubai Sites
Desert Excursions
The highlight of my trip to Dubai has to be my Camel Safari Excursion with Platinum Heritage Luxury Tours and Safaris Dubai. I am so happy to have used this company to take me to the desert and experience what I envisioned to be how the Bedouins of Old lived. I took a lot of time to research what tour company I would use to take me to the deserts of Dubai and hands down, Platinum Heritage ranked the best both by my hotel's Concierge and on TripAdvisor.
I chose the Camel Desert Safari which would take place inside the pristine desert eco-system located within the Dubai Desert Conservation Reserve (DDCR), U.A.E's first national park. Reservations can be made online which I recommend or through your Concierge at the hotel. Tours start at AED595 or USD$163. My tour guide Dominic picked me up promptly at 4:00p.m. and we drove in a van 45 minutes away towards the Arabian Desert. They returned me to the hotel just after 11:00p.m. with memories to last me a lifetime.
Dubai Miracle Garden
The Miracle Garden of Dubai is a seasonal, one-of-a-kind attraction publicizing itself as the world's largest natural flower garden. It really is an extravagant outdoor display of massive floral structures and designs, entirely made of real flowers! The structures are changed every season except in June through September when the temperatures in Dubai reach an average of 104 degrees. This garden attracts over 1.5 million visitors a year. I went here early at opening time to avoid the crowds and to leave by 12noon before the temperature soared. Give yourself a couple of hours to explore this marvel and take as many photos as you want. Avoid asking the guards to take your photo, they most certainly will decline. The entry cost is AED42.86 or USD$12.00.
Dubai Butterfly Garden
This attraction is quite often missed. It is adjacent to the Miracle Garden within a 5 minute walk. The Butterfly Garden houses thousands of butterflies of various species. If you love butterflies, it is worth a visit (at AED55.00 or USD$15.00).
Burj Khalifa
In my opinion, a visit to Burj Khalifa, the world's tallest skyscraper is worth it. When will you ever get the chance to experience being 2,717 feet in the sky looking down onto Dubai. I remember counting in the elevator and it took 23 seconds to get to the 125th floor observation deck. You can also visit the observatory deck on the148th floor to get ultimate views of the city. I recommend you book your tickets online and choose a specific time to visit to avoid the outrageous queues to get a ticket. You will even have the option to reserve immediate entry admission (also recommended). Be prepared, it will be crowded like any tourist attraction but it would really be a shame to miss this modern marvel.
Burj Al Arab
Burj Al Arab Jumeirah is an opulent all-suite hotel worth a billion dollars and shaped as a sailboat in Dubai. It has nine restaurants, 4 pools, a private beach, a spa, a helipad and is said to be the only SEVEN STAR hotel in the hospitality industry. It is also said to have amenities such as gold plated iPads, revolving beds, a pillow menu with 17 different pillows to choose from (you get the gist). Unfortunately I was unable to experience or verify this. You must have a reservation confirmation to even enter the grounds of Burj Al Arab. Even the taxi driver re-confirmed that I had a reservation before we proceeded with the drive there. I had a dining appointment at Skyview Bar for Afternoon Tea at Burj Al Arab, otherwise I could not step foot there or afford a stay in the hotel. Burj Al Arab oozes luxury and excess. I manage to take a few photos of the grand lobby and maybe one day, I can order a fancy pillow from the pillow menu when I stay here.