Paris in the Fall — A Petite and Solo Wayfarer

Paris in the Spring is a very popular time to explore the beauties of this city and to experience its romance. I've been to Paris three times, twice in the Spring. It may be my favorite city in the world. Recently, I chose to visit "The City of Lights" in the Fall, near peak foliage season and it was wonderful. I chose the third week of October hoping the leaves would be changing in all its glory and I was not disappointed. I did all the touristy things (again) and tried new nooks and corners to explore.

Petite and Solo Safety Factor

4.5 out of 5

Paris is a medium-large cosmopolitan city with a diversity of ethnicity and cultures. She is smaller than New York City but Paris herself is bigger than Manhattan. Every square meter is used in Paris and its density is higher than New York City. As a single, petite woman traveler, I felt comfortable navigating the streets of Paris well into the evening. If you know or learn the basics of the french language, Parisians will be helpful to you with directions, menu ordering etc. I did not encounter beggars, gypsies or homelessness as I did on my first visit in 2000. The streets are as clean as ever. French people were cordial if not friendly.

Keep your passport in your hotel room unless you are going shopping as you will need it for your VAT (Value-added Tax) Refund form from the merchants. A chic crossbody bag or satchel purse on the arm will suffice to keep your belongings close to you and safe. As a born and bred New Yorker, I would always advise to be mindful of your surroundings while you travel anywhere and while you explore the city you are visiting.

Accessibility

In Paris, I loved the cafes, the museums, the monuments, the architecture and I loved walking endlessly to get to them. Paris is a beautifully designed city, made for walking. It seems as if everything is no higher than six stories and its characteristic gray structures just adds more charm to the city.

Sometimes you can't walk everywhere. That is when the Metro comes in. It's easy to use, convenient and not too expensive (definitely cheaper than the $2.75 per Subway ride in New York City). You can not go wrong using the Metro. If you are a New Yorker like me, you can easily navigate the train system. In the tunnels, the stops for the lines are posted for easy reference and visibility. Inside the cars, the announcements are clearly visible for the approaching stops and in the modern cars, an electronic voice announces them. The Metro comes around quite often (every 1 - 4 minutes in many cases). Paris' Metro system definitely trumps New York City's MTA.

Single Girl Comfort

Are the French snobs? I suppose they could be but I don't see them that way. I see them as confident. I did find however that Parisians will judge someone for their appearance. I found that what you wear defines you and unfortunately, you can be judged for it. Style is key no matter what. Looking chic even casually will benefit you. La Parisienne wears mostly black and neutrals. Walking shoes is important as a tourist but while a ballet flat may be comfortable, it will become unbearable after several miles of walking. You should have arch support therefore I would recommend a low-heeled bootie or a fashionable slip-on sneaker that everyone is wearing these days. It's very Euro-chic. I notice now that wearing jeans is not a faux pas as it used to be. Skinny jeans or leggings are fashionable as long as they are dark color. Pair it with a Mohair sweater, booties, a jacket and simple jewelry and you are good to go. Think JCrew Magazine. Scarves are still all the rave and everyone wears them. At night for dinner, I dressed simple chic. It's sort of my style anyway and it worked well in fashionable Paris.

If you are visiting the Haute Couture or luxury shops for shopping, you may have the dress the part to be taken seriously. I don't mean pulling out the fur but keep the sneakers in the gym. On my last trip, I walked into Cartier, Christian Louboutin and Salvatore Ferragamo on Rue Saint Honore Faubourg and I did not feel uncomfortable. No one turned their nose up at me as if I was Julia Roberts in the movie Pretty Woman. The attendants were attentive, friendly, helpful and informative. I honestly believe if I walked in like the stereotyped look of an American in jeans and sneakers, it would have been a different experience.

Finally, the men. French men are flirty but this is harmless. As a medium-brown skinned, pixie hair cut, five foot woman dining alone in a trendy, chic restaurant, I don't recall getting stares. I believe I received looks of curiosity or mild admiration. The men typically asked where I was from and mentioning New York peaked their interest. I was not treated rudely nor was I disrespected. Personally, I believe they simply wanted to place where I was from. They appreciated my politeness and my confidence.

Dining Solo and Confident

Dining solo in a foreign country, especially in the evening can be daunting. You will find that it can be easy in Paris. The hundreds of cafes and bistros allows you to select a table outside (weather permitting) to sip on an espresso or cafe au lait, read a book, check your Instagram, smoke a cigarette a la French and people watch. No one cares that you are sitting alone.

If you prefer a more refined experience, many restaurants take "Un table pour une personne s'il vous plait" - table for one please. Waiters and servers can be nonchalant and anticipate what you need. By entering a restaurant and waiting to be seated, your need is obvious. You will be asked by a gesture or a word or two, Combien madam? (how many madame?). You can reply with one finger. They get the hint. You will be seated and handed a menu. After you order and get your meal, they generally leave you alone. There is nothing wrong in pulling out your reading material or iPhone to occupy yourself. Or you may simply enjoy the meal. Paris is too cool to care.

In Angelina, I had a wonderful breakfast along with the best chocolate in Paris. My female server was friendly and efficient. I ordered my meal in French and on occasion I spoke English. She told me she thought I was a Parisienne when I walked in. I was so unbelievably flattered. Perhaps it was what I wore, or my air but I felt great knowing that I was a solo female Black-american traveler in Paris and I was mistaken for a chic native of Paris.

Great Places to dine:

Frenchie Hard to find and hard get reservations but worth it. Contemporary French market cooking at its best.

Angelina for the best hot chocolate in Paris

L'Avant Comptoir - Standing Room only with Tapas-style menu hanging from ceiling

Le Relais de l'entrecote - Classic steak frites

Peninsula Paris La Terrasse Kleber - one of the largest outdoor covered terraces in Paris

Wayfarer Pointers

The Louvre Museum

For museum lovers, Musee du Louvre or The Louvre Museum is a must and a favorite. A former palace residence of the kings of France, it will take hours or even days to truly explore and embrace all the exhibits there. The queue to get into The Louvre doesn't make it easier but a well-known pointer is to purchase the Museum Pass. Once I arrived at Charles de Gaulle International Airport and completed the Customs process, I purchased the pass at the tourism desk (available as 2-day, 4-day or 6-day), allowing me free entry to over 50 museums and monuments in Paris without having to stand on line.

The best kept secret however is to use the Porte des Lion (the Gate of Lions), the wing closest to the Seine River. I walked over to the side of the Louvre Palace (not the main entry near the Pyramid) and used this entrance instead. NO ONE WAS THERE. There was absolutely no line. I was the only one at this entrance and in 30 seconds, I was inside the Louvre and avoided the god-awful lines at the popular and main entrances.

Eiffel Tower

Seeing the Eiffel Tower, day or night or both is so deliciously touristy but you will love being there and climbing the tower. There will be two long and seemingly endless queues; a line for a ticket and a line to climb the stairs or use the lift up the tower after you receive your ticket. I detest lines therefore I purchased my ticket in advance online and selected a designated slot of time to visit. I wanted to visit the tower at night and selected 10:00pm. I arrived via the Metro No. 6, got off at Bir-Hakeim stop and walked about 9 minutes towards the tower. There are signs to direct you towards the monument however you can just follow the crowd heading in the same direction. I arrived about fifteen minutes to 10:00pm. I proceed directly to the area designated for persons with tickets, had my printed copy of my ticket ready which was scanned and I was up, up and away to see the city of Paris from above.

Chateau de Versailles

I adored my visits to Versailles. It is a 17th century Royal Chateau with 17 acres of gardens located about 12 miles outside the center of Paris. The RER trains (similar to New York City's Long Island Railroads or the Metro-North) will get you there within 30 - 45 minutes. Again, once you get off the train, you simply follow the crowds to the glorious chateau. Arriving there early is key. Anytime before 9:00am is recommended. I arrived before 9:00am and there was still a queue. I asked to myself, what was the sense of getting up early to find an increasing long, winding line. I then spotted about 10 tour buses full of Asian tourists being herded by their guides holding a flag on a pole. I made a B-line towards the queue to get ahead of them. It moved very quickly and within 15 minutes, I was inside the inner gates heading inside to explore the great halls and rooms of this palace. Of course, I bought my ticket ahead of time on the official Versailles website and printed it in advance. At Versailles, once again there are two queues, a separate office to purchase tickets followed by the eye-sore of a queue to enter Versailles. Therefore, either buy your ticket online (or purchase it by organizing it through your hotel's Concierge), print your copy, get there early and jump on the line before the masses arrives.

After spending almost two hours inside, now the fun starts, the massive grounds. Arriving early allowed me to rent the electric golf-like carts. They were awesome. I was able to explore the beautifully manicured gardens and see the Fountains of Versailles, the Grand Trianon and Marie Antoinette's Estate. Two or three hours of exploring will do. By 2:00pm after buying a souvenir at the gift shop, I was off back to Paris passing the horrid line that had quadrupled in size outside the gates of Versailles.

The Other Love Bridge

Pont des Arts is also called the Love bridge where you were able to leave a memento in Paris in the form of a padlock, however in June 2015, the city decided to cut all the locks off as they were damaging and weighing down the bridge with their weight. The Pont de Arts is now lined with plexiglass. Do not fret, you may still lock your hearts on Pont de L'Archeveche. The bridge located behind Notre Dame linking the 4th Arrondisement, at the Ile de la Cite to the 5th Arrondissement. Love padlocks are abundant on this bridge including mine. I found a way to leave my heart in Paris.

Buy Chanel (for cheaper)

I die for a classic Chanel quilted bag. Unfortunately, it would be an outrageously expensive expense. There is a possibility however to score an authentic or unique Chanel bag, bracelet, necklace, scarf, etc., by buying vintage. Les 3 Marches Catherine B. in Saint Germain des Pres is the ultimate find for vintage Chanel and Hermes. Go take a look.

Get your VAT back

My intent while in Paris was to do a little shopping. I stopped by Cartier for my first piece of jewelry from the renowned jeweler. At the time the ratio of the US Dollar to the EU Euro was 1:1. I was coveting the famed LOVE Ring and not only was it a bit more affordable in France than in the United States, I can get the tax paid on it back! I picked up a couple of designer shoes as well at Christian Louboutin. Again, they were cheaper in France and I can apply for the VAT refund. Definitely worth it for anything you shop that costs over 175 euros at the 20% VAT standard rate in France.

VAT REFUND STEPS

Bring your passport with you to the vendor(s) if you plan on spending over 175 euros.
Make sure the retailer knows you want your VAT refund and have them complete the tax-free form. This has to be done before you leave the store. Make sure all information taken is correct including passport number, your mailing address, your phone number, your e-mail address and the credit card number taken.
You have two options: getting your refund in euros at the airport or have it credited back to your credit card. I opted for the credit card credit option. The store normally gives you two copies of the VAT refund form and a postage-free pre-addressed envelope.
Arrive at the airport early. Go directly to the Customs office and make sure the Export officer stamps your documents. He/She may ask to see the merchandise so do not put it in your checked luggage. Fortunately for me, they did not ask to see my ring and shoe purchases.
If the merchant works with a refund service such as Global Blue or Premier Tax fee, the offices are in the airport and you can get your refund in cash (minus their cut of about 4%). Since I choose to get my refund back onto my credit card, all I needed to do was to use one of the copies of the stamped, sealed form and place it in the specially designated yellow mailbox.
Now I left Paris and waited. Nearly 6 to 8 weeks later (about two billing cycles), I noticed my refund on my credit card statement. I was elated!