Jan 15

Jan 15 Eat Pray Love Wander Solo in Bali

For New Years Eve 2015, I spent the last few hours of the year in the middle of New York City's Times Square, counting down the seconds into 2016 along with a million revelers. At the time, the experience to me felt like a once-in-a-lifetime moment although I lived in New York all my life. I wondered how could I top this experience next year? Where would I be on December 31, 2016? Was there a place I could go to feel the same joy and excitement, a camaraderie with my fellow revelers, a perfect place to ring in the New Year with a sense of being? With the beginning of the New Year, I soon began my obsession of making a pilgrimage to the island of Bali in Indonesia, the paradise with a soul.

Pura Luar Uluwatu (Water Temple) on the Indian Ocean

Petite and Solo Safety Factor

4.5 out of 5

Bali is known as the Island of Gods. I fell more in love with this idyllic island as every day passed there. Bali is one of 18,000 islands (6,000 inhabited) to the Republic of Indonesia in Southeast Asia, sitting between the Indian and Pacific oceans and straddling the Equator. Deciding to travel here from the United States should not be taken lightly. From New York, it takes a minimum of 23 hours to fly to Indonesia and for me, this long journey would be considered a bucket list trip, one I would take alone to explore solo and freely. I decided to reserve 10 days in Bali and visit two provinces or towns; Ubud in the uplands with its rainforest and Nusa Dusa in the south with its enclave of renowned beach resorts. Was I afraid to be in Bali alone? I admit I knew nothing of Bali, other than it being a tropical paradise on the other side of the world. A co-worker of mine was from Indonesia. He was a kind, friendly sort of fellow who always smiled. I asked him if he would recommend Bali for a solo female traveler and without hesitation, he said Bali is absolutely a wonderful place for a solo traveler to visit. Indonesia as a populous country has the largest Muslim population in the world, however the Hindu religion that dominates in Bali and across other Central islands, provides the main framework for many of its cultural traditions. The Balinese strongly believe in Karma and regard one another with respect. What they do in this life affects their lives in the next. For this, they strive to live peacefully with honor and the men highly regard the women with respect. My colleague told me I will have no trouble being alone in Bali.

Bali has a unique cultural blend with spectacular highland regions, lush rice terraces, rugged coastlines and some legendary and picturesque beaches. I did not have a sense of being in danger even at night. In Ubud, chauffeured vehicles are often needed to get to many of the sites, temples and attractions. I always had a friendly and trustworthy driver to pick me up or drop me off throughout my adventures. In the early evenings, the hotels also provide transfers, often complimentary to get you into Ubud centre. This is obviously convenient and a comfortable option of transportation for the solo female traveler. At the temples I visited, in some cases very early to avoid the crowds, I found myself alone to explore freely. Never did I feel unsafe but I always remained aware of my surroundings as you should in all circumstances.

The Balinese remind me very much of the Thai, a peaceful, humble and kind people who respect each other and those persons they encounter. I was always greeted with a smile everywhere while trekking through rice paddy fields, visiting the markets or exploring the food stalls, at the temples and on the beaches. I would go back to Bali alone in a heartbeat.

Accessibility

To date, Bali is the farthest trip I've travelled from the United States. To reach Bali, you land in Ngurah Rai International Airport also known as Denpasar International Airport. I chose to fly Qatar Airways from New York with a connection in Doha, Qatar to Bali. The legs of the flights were 13 hours and 9-3/4 hours respectively. There are a number of international airlines that fly to Bali but I found Qatar Airways to be a highly regarded five-star airline with competitive fares and shorter flight times. At the time of booking, my fare was approximately $1,200.00 but I was elated to be upgraded a week out from my trip on the long leg of the flight. I had the opportunity to experience Qatar Airways' new Airbus A350 jet in Premium class.

U. S. Citizens do not require a visa if the traveler is staying in Indonesia for under 30 days; otherwise, it will cost USD$35.00 and can be purchased upon arrival (cash only). I organized my airport transfer through the hotel which was complimentary. From the airport, I was off to Ubud, an 1-1/2 hour car ride northeast.

Bali is a large island and you will need to plan a method of transportation for exploration. The roads are struggling to cope with constant development and an aging infrastructure. During the day, there is constant and daily traffic jams to Ubud, Kuta, Seminyak and throughout Denpasar.

As mentioned earlier, in Ubud, for day tripping, you will likely arrange a driver to get you around or may have to use the hotel's sedans if offered. The driver will take you as directed to various sites and attractions and wait for you before taking you back to your hotel once you are done with your exhausting but exhilarating day. Prices vary as low at 300,000 Rupiah or Rp to 800,000 Rupiah per day (usually defined as 8 - 10 hours) depending if you hire your own driver or arrange it through your hotel. Commonly, the driver could accompany you to the tourist destination or stay in the car and leave you to your exploration.

Metered taxis are more common and abundant in South Bali and are quite affordable. Whilst in Nusa Dua, I used the Bali Taksi (Blue Bird), which is the largest and most reliable taxi company. That being said, I still had to make sure that the meter was turned on when I entered the cab. On one occasion, I hopped into a taksi from Nusa Dua to Jimbaran and the driver struck up a nice conversation with me. He was pleasant enough and I didn't mind the distraction. Upon my arrival to my destination, I asked him what the damage was and he quoted me 150,000Rp ($11.23). I feigned surprise and asked him why was the fare so much. He then suddenly seemed embarrassed and as I looked down at the meter, it read 92,850Rp ($6.95). He tried to double the fare on me! I did not shame him but I handed him 95,000Rp ($7.11). I'm from New York. You can't hustle a hustler. Make sure the meter is on and running as soon as your enter the taksi and make sure to monitor it.

Aside from the numerous vehicles on the roads of Ubud and Nusa Dua, you will notice an equal amount of scooters and motorbikes along with them. They are most certainly available for rental if you are brave enough to navigate the streets of Bali. While frightening to witness, it is very common to see three or even four people riding on a motorbike together, many with children, toddlers and even babies, all without helmets! While renting a motorbike may seem like a fun and cheaper mode of transportation, I personally would not recommend renting one unless you are sure you are comfortable with the chaotic roads of Bali.

Finally, a friend of mine gave me numbers of reliable chauffeurs in both the Ubud and Nusa Dua areas with reasonable quotes for half-day and all-day assignments. I highly recommend:

Mr. Gusti Sutarja www.gustitourservices.wordpress.com E-mail: gsutarja@gmail.com Mobile no.: 62 081 2387-9036

Mr. I. Ketut Kerna/Mandiri Transport Peminge Nusa Dua, E-mail: kerna34@gmail.com Phone no.: 62 081 999 946975

Single Girl Comfort

In India, I arranged for female tour guides to accompany me to many of the sites and attractions to provide me knowledge of the important structures and temples but also to serve as a companion in a male-dominated area where it may be frowned upon to have a woman wander alone. In Bali, this is not the case and I wandered freely to many of the key historical sites and did not experience a sense of discomfort or harassment.

I must admit that the Balinese were astonished to see me by myself. I don't think race had anything to do with it either. On several occasions, I was asked if I was alone, if I had a friend or husband with me, where was I from, how could I travel so far by myself, how I must be a brave person to accomplish such a feat. These questions and statements derived from curiosity and wonder without judgment (at least not in my presence).

I encountered other solo travelers, both male and female on my trip, many exploring the alluring temples with a tripod or a selfie stick like me. We were all there for the same purpose in Bali and undoubtedly felt the same sense of comfort when running into each other.

The Balinese women and men were kind and friendly. At the markets, I was not haggled too much to purchase their wares. A polite "no thank you" was enough to relay that you are not interested in buying another sarong or piece of woodwork. At night with the reliance of a chauffeured car to take me to and from the hotel for dinner, I ventured out later, well past after 10:00p.m. On New Year's Eve, I returned to my hotel at almost 2:00a.m. Revelers were still partying in the streets of Bali. While it is quieter in Nusa Dua than it is in Kuta and Seminyak on New Year's Eve, I did not feel isolated on my way back to my hotel from my celebrations on New Year's Day morning.

At the Chedi Club Tanah Gajah Hotel Ubud

Dining Solo and Confident

Dining options in Bali are abundant, from dining in 4 and 5 stars hotels, cafes and bistros in Ubud centre, remote eateries in the middle of rice paddies fields in Ubud, cliff-side bars and restaurants in Badung and freshly caught seafood along the beach in Jimbaran. Nearly all hotels include full breakfast in their room rate, to be enjoyed in the privacy of your room/suite/villa or in the hotel's restaurant. In Ubud at The Chedi Club Tanah Gajah, I enjoyed my breakfast in their beautiful and serene open air restaurant in the middle of a rice paddy field. I felt I had to wake-up early and dine there instead of my pool villa to take in the magic of Ubud. I am accustomed to dining alone and having my iPhone keep me company as I look over the hundreds of photos I've taken thus far on this magical trip. The people of Indonesia as so friendly and kind that you will not feel uncomfortable dining alone. For the sought-out restaurants in Ubud and Nusa Dua, I do recommend that you make reservations even if you are a solo traveler.

Great Places to Dine:

The Chedi Club Tanah Gajah - A private and indulgent luxury hotel in the uphills of Ubud, surrounded by sustainable rice fields and duck ponds

Hanging Gardens of Bali - another unique luxury boutique hotel in Ubud with its restaurant overlooking the Dalem Segara Temple and the world's best swimming pool. There is a minimum spend for lunch here as many tourists come to get a glimpse of this remarkable setting

Kebun Bistro - an adorable French/Italian Bistro in Ubud centre, made for Instagram pics and for a break from Indonesian cuisine

CasCades Restaurant at Viceroy Bali - a fine dining restaurant with European and Asian influence overlooking the Valley of the Kings

Blanco par Mandif - Michelin Star-like dining at its finest in Ubud centre with only a 10-table seating. Reservations are a must and hard to get

The Cafe at the Mulia - You will get more for your buck here at this massive cafeteria with seven food stations of fine international cuisine. All you can eat dinner buffet for 459,000Rp ($35.00), located in The Mulia in Nusa Dua

Orchid Tea Lounge at Rimba Jimbaran Bali by Ayana - This is a lovely setting to have Afternoon Tea, surrounded by orchids

Boneka Restaurant at St. Regis Bali, Nusa Dua - Best Sunday Brunch is here. Cocktails at King Cole Bar followed by decadence (and borderline gluttony)

Sundara Bali at the Four Seasons Resort Jimbaran Bay - New Year's Eve was spent here watching the fireworks over Jimbaran Bay

Wayfarer Pointers

Vaccinations and mysterious illnesses

Lucky for me, I was vaccinated with Hepatitis A & B five years ago for my first trip to Asia. These vaccinations are recommended by the CDC if traveling to Indonesia. My primary care physician however administered a typhoid shot to me as he knew I was an adventurous eater and typhoid can be contracted through contaminated food and water. A tetanus vaccine booster is also a good idea if it has been a while since you've had one. My doctor also prescribed a few days supply of ciprofloxacin, a powerful antibiotic for "Bali Belly" or intense travelers' diarrhea. It is very important to not drink the water in Bali. Always ask for mineral water and make sure your tea or coffee is piping hot.

Two days after arriving to Bali, I developed a throat-irritating, gummy feeling and itchy cough. I feared I caught a cold on the long flights to Indonesia from fellow passengers. The cough would come on suddenly and randomly; sometimes after I ate, in an air-conditioned car or at night in the middle of my sleep. With every day, the cough grew worse yet I did not experience any other signs of having a cold. My sides would hurt with each body-shaking cough. I began to notice that many people around me also had a similar sounding cough. Was it an allergy, or effects from the high humidity of Bali? I could not figure out the cause. On the 5th day of my trip, one night I had a sudden thought that it could be bacterial, something in the air that I kept inhaling. I took a chance and ingested a cipro pill that my doctor prescribed to me "just in case". The next morning, I felt so much better. My cough was less harsh and less frequent. By the end of my trip, I was no longer coughing. Until this day, I don't know what it was and perhaps I was simply exposed to a tropical illness that I would normally not encountered. Either way, I was thankful to have the ciprofloxacin which I would suggest you carry with you if and when you travel to Indonesia.

Ubud wonders

I immersed myself into this beautiful island and tried to visit significant sites, temples and monuments of Bali's history which gave me a better understanding of the culture of its people. Bali has over 6,000 temples and four different types of temples dependent on the purpose of worship. My picks for definite must-sees in Ubud are:

Tegalalang Rice Terraces

I went trekking to Tegalalang Rice Terraces, a beautifully terraced rice field located north of Ubud in the village of Pakudui. It was very green here despite the fact that harvest recently took place in mid-December. It is beautifully breathtaking and picturesque and the weather was on my side this day without any rainfall or muddy ground. Entrance is free with arrows directing you towards paths to ascend and descend the field. An hour to 1-1/2 hour is enough time here for exploring. Try to go as early as possible to avoid the hordes of tourists and mid-day heat that really gets going around 10:00a.m.

Gunung Kawi

This pre-Hindu temple complex is one of Bali's oldest and largest monuments. It consists of 10 shrines or candis carved out of rock and stands 8 meters high. It is really awe-inspiring to look upon these carvings out of the cliff face, built in the 11th century.

Here at this complex, you will wander through streams, fountains, monuments and temples, all dedicated to ancient royalty. The entrance fee is 15,000Rp and a sarong is necessary to enter as this place is considered holy. It can be provided and is included in the entry fee. My hotel provided me a traditional sarong for free. Be prepared to descend and climb back up 270 steep steps. Ladies, also note that women who are on their menstrual cycle are not permitted to enter temples. It is considered unclean.

Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary

By the name you can guess what this popular attraction is about however Mandala Suci Wenara Wana or the Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary is not just about the 600 or so Balinese monkeys that populate the area, it is about conservation of the area based on the concept of Tri Hita Karana. Tri Hita Karana is one of the philosophies of Hinduism that focuses on how people should maintain a harmonious relationship with this life, with humans, with their environment and with the Supreme God.

As you wander, there are three temples and numerous statues and figures depicting nature. There is a stream leading to the Holy Spring Temple. There are also rare plants and ginormous trees you will probably never encounter again in your life. It is a wondrous place to explore and to see a monkey or two along the way.

For your safety, here are some of my recommendations or Monkey Forest Tips:

The monkeys are generally not aggressive but will react to food, paper bags, plastic bags or plastic bottles. You should entrust these things at the ticket counter.
If you decide to buy bananas to interact or feed the monkeys, please do so carefully. While giving the banana to the monkey and as it approaches you to take it, do not pull it back or run away.
Stash your sunglasses away in your sealed hand or crossbody bag. These monkeys love sunglasses.
If the monkey climbs on you, do not panic. You do not want to be scratched and risk the exposure to rabies. There is a first aid station inside the forest.
Avoid approaching the mothers and their infants. They are fiercely protective.

Goa Gajah

Goa Gajah or Elephant Cave does not have any elephants depicted anywhere at this temple. This archeological site was named as such because of its proximity to Sungai Petanu or Elephant River. It dates back to as far as the 9th or 11th Century and served as a sanctuary to ward off evil spirits. At Goa Gajah, there is also a bathing pool with five shrines which were excavated in 1954 as well as a temple. Again, women who are menstruating are forbidden from entering here. The entrance fee is 15,000Rp and includes a sarong. I wore long pants the morning I visited and did not require one. I arrived at 8:00a.m. and there was barely a person there. When I departed an hour later, the buses began to arrive.

Badung-Benoa wonders and beyond

The South Bali region is the most popular part of Bali, Indonesia which is associated with beautiful beaches, shopping and partying. Two of the Key Directional temples are also located in South Bali and I had the opportunity to visit both of them. South Bali has a large range of accommodation options. Budget travelers should look into Kuta and Legian. Seminyak is almost exclusively the area of chic high-end hotels, private villas and known for the best nightlife. Sanur has well-priced hotels aimed at families. Nusa Dua attracts the higher end package tourist.

Geger Beach

Pantai Geger or Geger Beach is known for being one of the best beaches in Bali and is conveniently located in Nusa Dua where I was staying. It is quiet, long, deep with barely any waves and perfect for swimming. The water is clear for hundreds of feet and Geger has a cooling breeze as it is one of the few beaches facing east. The water is also some of the warmest water temperatures in Bali due to the reef which can be seen from shore. Most of the upscale resorts of Nusa Dua straddle Geger Beach including The Mulia, The St. Regis and The Bale. Restaurants, beach beds and massage ladies work for the local cooperative, therefore by supporting them with your purchases, you support the locals.

Pura Tanah Lot

Pura Tanah Lot is a temple located on a rock formation in West Bali. It is about 1-1/2 hours away from Nusa Dua via car. I travelled to this key temple, very early in the morning on New Year's Eve and arrived at 8:00a.m. in order to catch the low tide and walk over the rock formation. It was Monsoon Season in Bali and I was risking a downpour at any minute with the looming dark clouds above. The rain never came and I took the most phenomenal photos here. The entrance fee is 60,000Rp.

Luar Pura Uluwatu (Water Temple)

Uluwatu temple is a spectacular temple located on a cliff-top at the edge of a plateau 250 feet above the Indian Ocean. I was fortunate to visit this Key Directional temple on the first day of the year before sunset. What is remarkable about Uluwatu is that you get two different perspectives from the each end of the cliff. It almost feels as if you are walking along a "Great Wall" of Bali with a small forest of monkeys in the background. The views of the endless swells of the India Ocean from the cliffs are majestic. Here is also where you can take in the popular and nightly Kecak Dance performance. Uluwatu's Kecak Dance is the most famous in all of Bali. Entrance fee is 30,000R for Pura Uluwatu and a sarong and sash is included. I recommend that you come here at 3:30p.m. to explore Uluwatu for an hour or so, purchase your ticket to the Kecak Dance for 100,000Rp at 5:00p.m. and make your way to the amphitheater before 5:30p.m. to get a good seat to view the dance. Be prepared for the mesmerizing sunset which will provide great photo ops and a wonderful sense of being. It did for me especially witnessing this on the first day of 2017.